On the inability to ask questions

One of the problems with spending a prolonged period of time in a country like Romania is the constant sense of being just outside of the loop.  I have a decent grasp of a several languages, but Romanian just doesn’t make sense to me – so I have a feeling of helplessness when I’m out in public without a native speaker to help me.  Generally this doesn’t lead to many problems, but today I spent the majority of the day on my own and ended up feeling out of place.

What does this have to do with anything you may ask?  Well as I sat in my hotel room tonight watching the Red Sox lose to Toronto via Slingbox I heard sounds outside my window. I looked towards the Piata Victoriei (Victory Square) and saw fireworks over the Orthodox Cathedral.  I would love to say I knew why they were shooting fireworks off, but as is often the case here – I just don’t know.





On building a team

As I alluded in my previous entry – last weekend we went on a Team Building trip down the Danube River. The itinerary I had received indicated we would leave the hotel at 7am, arrive around 2pm – take a boat down the river, and then see some caves. That night there would be dinner and then a party. The next day we were to meet for breakfast at 9am and then depart for “water activities” as well as paintball. We were then supposed to do a debriefing type of thing at the hotel and then head back at 8pm.

At 7am sharp I was down in the lobby with the few possessions I had that could possibly pertain to a weekend of outdoor activities. Of course I really only packed clothes for work and a couple of long sleeve tees for the weekends, so I was pretty much at a disadvantage right from the get go. I had been able to purchase a nice new pair of sneakers the day previously at the Nike store in the mall, so at least I had two pairs of shoes for the weekend. This would turn out to be a very good thing.

We boarded the bus and pretty much everybody immediately fell to sleep. I awoke several hours earlier to find we were in the heart of the Romanian countryside. We drove through several small towns and through winding roads amidst fields that had some anemic livestock. It’s incredible how similar countryside is pretty much anywhere you go in the world. If you didn’t see the street signs you wouldn’t be sure if you were in Romania, Belgium, Kansas, or Central Mass.  

We finally found our way along the Danube River – my co-workers explained to me that the opposite shore was actually Serbia. As we continued south along the bank of the river we saw a huge statue carved into the side of a large rock off the road. Everybody tried to take pictures from the bus, but thankfully we pulled over and were able to have a quick break to take pictures while our guide explained what we were looking at. The face in the rock belonged to an ancient Romanian king named Decebalus who fought the Roman empire several times during his reign. The carving is massive and looks like something out of Lord of the Rings. When I asked how long it had been present the tour leader said “oh they just finished about two years ago.” Hmm. That sort of makes it a little less impressive.

About 20 minutes later we found ourselves at our hotel. The area we were staying at is actually a resort-type place for the wealthy of Timisoara. The rooms all looked out directly on the river, and were very nice. Thankfully I was one of the four people in our group to get a single room. I think they felt a little guilty about not giving me more warning about the trip, that and they probably assume I have some horrible disease that all American’s get in college or something.
After a quick lunch we were broken up into two groups to head out to the caves. One group would take the boat down river while the other group would take the bus to the exit of the cave. We would then cross paths mid-cave and the boat people would take the bus back and visa versa. I was a part of the boat group, and so we loaded up into a slender boat with an outboard and began our journey down the river. It should be noted that it was roughly 50 degrees outside and spitting rain – so really just perfect weather for a nice boat cruise.

As we made our way down the river our guide explained that during the communist rule people tried to swim across the river to Serbia to escape the country. He told us a story of his friends who were traveling the river looking for caves and were detained by the coast guard. They asked why they had tents and ropes. They explained what they were doing, but the coast guard didn’t believe them. So they took them back to headquarters and tortured them for three days before finally believing their story. Stories like that sort of throw into sharp contrast how fortunate we have been in the US for so long.

We finally stopped at a small cave and looked around. It was just a cavern in the side of the rock, but was nice to see none the less. We then loaded back into the boat and headed further down river to the larger cave. As we drifted into the entrance we saw the other group just emerging from the dark. What we saw sent a shock through all of us on the boat. They looked like they had just been through war. Many were soaked through with water, covered in mud, and generally looked like they were ready to lie down and die.

There were some brief words of warning about the conditions ahead… a pool of water that had to be waded through… and a broken ladder somewhere along the line. Of course there is zero light in the cave, so we had to share head lanterns. Immediately two things became obvious: The first is that my new shoes were a horrible idea to wear since they don’t have any tread, but rather a smooth sole. The other is that I was carrying a large camera, a backpack, and wearing a long jacket. Needless to say I was going to have a rough time.

I wish I could explain what it was like in the cave, but to be honest it’s all a little blurry at this point. Once we got moving there was no slowing down. It was almost as though we were trying to race through. We reached the water fairly early and took off our shoes and socks and rolled up our pants to get through it. I of course dropped a shoe with the sock inside at some point. Thus the rest of the trek was down with a wet foot. Later that night when I took a shower at the hotel I had a blister the size of a silver dollar on the bottom of that foot.

As we began to finally emerge back into light there was one final challenge. Somebody had erected a wooden ladder to get out of a particularly steep area. This was well and good except that the ladder’s topmost rung was snapped in half. So you had to climb this ladder, and then somehow find purchase on the wet rocks and get over the lip of this outcropping. Thankfully there were some strong members from our office at the top who were helping haul people over the final hurdle.

Once we made it above that it was a fairly normal walk back to the bus. Once on everybody smelled kind of bad and looked worse for wear. By the time we got back to the hotel my muscles were already asking me what I thought I was doing, and did I not realize that I’m not in any physical shape for this sort of thing. I jumped into a hot shower and that seemed to make things better for a while. Dinner was fine, and the “party” didn’t exactly get rolling as everybody was too tired to even move.

The next day we ate breakfast in silence and then headed out towards the carving of Decebal for paintball and other team building games. Once again we were broken into two groups – one would do the paintball, the other would do the other games. My group played the other games first, and they were nice and easy so no problem. Once it was time to play paintball my team looked to me for advice, since shooting people for sport appears to be a primarily American activity. We tried some different strategies, but our team wasn’t quite as good as the others. Ultimately it was a lot of fun, even if I did get shot at least a dozen times while acting as the runner since the girls refused to get shot.

Back to the hotel where the organizers were asking if we wanted to continue with the program or do something different. The majority of the group elected for going home ASAP since nobody wanted to pull into town after midnight. Thankfully they agreed and we hopped back on the bus after lunch and made it home by 10:30pm.  

Overall the weekend was a great success, if not a little surreal. I made it through with my body intact, although my new shoes look like they were buried in the mud for a month. On the way back everybody was happy with the results, but we all agreed that the next team building event should revolve around a local pub and maybe a nice game of darts.

The full gallery from this trip can be found here.

On getting down to business

The problem with trying to keep up a blog or journal (I don’t think I will ever write as much as a true “blogger” doing an update every 15 minutes) is that the longer you don’t update the harder it is to figure out what to talk about.

Case in point – I’ve been in Romania for over a week now, have already had many adventures, but did not write about any of them as they occurred. Now I’m left with the daunting task of trying to get all of these things written down while not completely boring anybody who might find themselves reading this.

I suppose the only solution will be to give a day-by-day series of notes, and then expand upon things at a later date. While not all events are represented here, the important ones are, so this should tide us over until a time when more in depth writing can be done.

Day 1 – 9/8/08 – My first day in the office began with breakfast with my co-worker Anders at the hotel, we then went to the office where I was introduced to the team for the first time. Great group of people who have shown me as much hospitality as could be wanted. Since people seem to be curious about these things we ate lunch at a local cafeteria where you pick from several prepared dishes. I found that the sausage they call mititei is extremely tasty. After leaving work a little after 8pm Anders and I had dinner near the hotel at an Italian restaurant. Unaccustomed to European dining I forgot that it would take several hours. Back to the hotel where I laid awake until 3:30 am while my body told me it was still the middle of the afternoon. Strangest part of the day: staying awake long enough to see the first Monday Night Football game come on live over a local sports channel.

Day 2 – 9/9/08 – Breakfast with Anders; lunch with the team. Started getting down to brass tacks in terms of work today. More mititei with lunch – that stuff is too good. Informed of a “team building” weekend which my presence has been requested. All I want to do is sleep. After work I went out with a couple of guys from the office to the “Irish Pub” which inexplicably doesn’t server Guinness. Once again a late night – fell asleep around 3am…

Day 3 – 9/10/08 – Breakfast with Anders again; more lunch with the team – more mititei. The work day starts at 10am here since Romania is an hour ahead of CET. Of course that means you really don’t think about leaving until 7:30 or so. Unfortunately got stuck on a conference call until 9pm. Left the office by myself for the first time at night and was confronted by a wild pack of dogs. Ok – there were only two, but that was still a little strange. Was informed by co-workers that Thursday night is when we all go out – so that means I really need to work on getting some sleep tonight. 3am.

Day 4 – 9/11/08 – No breakfast this morning – early morning meetings. I know I’m in trouble when the guys from the team come into work and are already looking sharp for going out after work. Took lunch at my desk and worked through the day. Received a list of items I would need for the team building weekend. They include: sunglasses, cap, swimwear, a knife. Find out during the day that my ATM card does not work in Romania since my bank somehow has the entire country blacklisted for illegal activity. AmEx is able to help where my bank fails. After work the guys all come over to the hotel to hang out and have a drink before we are to meet up with the girls from the office. On the way to the bar my glasses break. We don’t leave the hotel until almost 11pm. The place we go is like an old wine cellar in the basement of an old building in the town square. It’s kind of clubby – but not like strobe lights and techno – just dance music. The team all seem to have a really good time, especially when they ask me to drink some of the local schnapps. It goes down like lighter fluid. In bed at 2am which is sadly an improvement.

Day 5 – 9/12/08 – Quick breakfast and then into the office. Several co-workers from the Munich office are coming into town, so we need to be ready. Thankfully a girl I work with is able to walk me over to her optometrist who also makes glasses. One hour and $5 later I have my glasses back in one piece. Informed that we need to catch the bus for team building at 7am on Saturday. “An early night” is what I tell myself. Unfortunately the Munich folks are coming in at odd times and dinner won’t start until 10pm. In the meantime head to the mall to buy some supplies for the weekend trip. Surprisingly nice mall – lots of American stores and a good food court. Go out for Italian – which is very good although I somehow end up with two plates of Risotto. Get to bed a little after midnight and actually fall to sleep.

I’ll make a separate post for the team building because it certainly deserves it. More work now, and hopefully tonight get to catch up on some television and sleep at a reasonable hour.

On falling asleep and awaking in a different world

It is currently 9pm in Timişoara Romania, and I'm currently relaxing in my hotel room, watching the Patriots game, and preparing myself for the grueling week ahead.

It also means that I've been on the move for the past 30 hours. After my last post from Logan airport my flight was able to take off without any Hannaference. The flight was uneventful apart from not getting much in the way of sleep. All in I probably dozed off and on for about three hours. Yet what a difference those three hours made.

After arriving in Munich I was immediately struck by the differences between Europe and the US. Not breaking any new ground here, but its something that you forget about until you encounter it anew.

The first big difference is the general cleanliness and orderly nature of the German people. There is a quiet efficiency to everything at the airport, and oddly off-kilter things as well. For example: There was a shop in the airport that sold traditional German wares such as steins and coo-coo clocks. Next to this shop was a high end porn store. There are the moving walkways that slowly creep ahead until you step on them, at which point a noticeable whoosh is heard and you begin moving at a pace we are more accustomed to. The neat efficiency of taking a shuttle bus from your gate to the waiting aircraft (the flight to Timişoara does not warrant a large plane, so you end up on a small jet with fold down stairs).

Of course Eastern Europe is slightly different than Western Europe. On arriving in Timişoara airport I noticed the lack of... well anything. There were two old buildings that appeared left over from the Communist years, weeds overgrowing, and a general sense of shoddiness that you don't find in many Western countries. The customs agent apparently doesn't have much to do, so she insisted on checking everyone's bags as they tried to leave the terminal. When I finally made my way outside the terminal my cab driver was waiting for me; and of course spoke no English at all. Not a problem however as he knew where we were going, and I wasn't in much mood to make small talk.

The hotel is much nicer than expected. The rooms are spacious, they have air conditioning (it's in the upper 80's here) and have new clean bathrooms. After checking in with loved ones and unpacking my bags I decided to head down to the restaurant and grab some dinner. This was at 6pm, and you would think I had a tail or something the way the waiters looked at me when I interrupted their wine/smoke break to ask if dinner was being served. Apparently six is a bit early for dinner in these parts.

After I finished my meal I decided to take a quick stroll around the immediate vicinity of the hotel to see if anything was going on. Of course Euro-rules apply, so on a Sunday nothing is open, but there appear to be quite a few shops in the area. Somehow I managed to find myself in the town square where around three hundred enraged football fans (European style) where having a rally. There were hundreds of flags, chants, and general hooliganism running rampant. If I had a bit more of my wits about me I would have stuck around to see how things broke down, but I'm afraid I was feeling a little fuzzy headed and decided I would need to pick my spots before I immersed myself in that sort of thing.

As I walked back to the hotel I realized that the women in Romania remind me of women from Long Island - a lot of big hair and ill-advised spandex.

That pretty much brings us full circle to me laying in bed - watching the Patriots and getting ready for bed. Hopefully with a good night of sleep I'll be ready to kick-start the week and maybe take part in some rallies.

On living out the lyrics to a John Denver song

As Tropical Storm Hanna makes her way up the eastern seaboard I find myself in the always enviable position of killing time at an airport. Thankfully the new(ish) international terminal at Logan is well appointed for the task at hand - with handy WiFi access as well as a whole seating area where every chair has its own power outlet, as well as USB charger plug.

I've already made the cursory once-over at the Duty Free shop. While the price of single malt scotch was enticing - I felt it would be in poor taste to bring a foreign spirit into a country without first having tried their own distilled beverages. This does not mean I do not reserve the right to make a similar purchase on my next trip out to Romania.

A little over an hour to go until it is time to board the plane, so I went ahead and broke out the camera for the first official photograph for this blog. As Douglas Adams once wrote "It is no coincidence that no language has ever developed the phrase 'pretty as an airport'", however the overhead lighting and quick bustle of those walking around make the terminal feel like a scene from The West Wing.

Now we just have to hope that the weather holds and we leave ontime. With any luck this time tomorrow I'll be asleep in my temporary home in Romania.

On the ancient art of dance, and the correlary to accomodations

Today I was finally able to confirm the hotel that I'll be staying at while in Romania.

Below you will find a link to Hotel Continental (click English in the upper right hand corner to translate).

Hotel Continental

As you can see from the website this hotel seems to have all the amenities that one would expect from a bustling city hotel. There are rooms with high speed data ports, laundry service, fitness center and spa, strip club, bar, restaurant, wait what?

Ahh yes - Club Galaxy - "the most rafinate cabaret show in town" If anybody knows what rafinate means I'm open to suggestions. I'm assuming we were going for refined here, but something about the typo makes it all the more endearing to me.

Apart from the oddity of having a cabaret in the hotel everything else looks quite nice. I'm very happy to finally know where I will be staying and look forward to exploring the town from a comfortable establishment with all the amenities of home.

On making things official

I was able to finalize my trip preparations for Timişoara this week. I traveled down to Connecticut on Tuesday to speak with my boss, our head of HR, our international tax person, our international business lawyer, three rather mangy cows, a dachshund named `Colin’, and a small hen in its late forties.

After a full day of negotiations and running down international visa laws it was decided that I would leave on Saturday September 6th. For those keeping track at home that is a little over a week away. I will be arriving on Sunday - and then - who knows?

I'm scheduled to return for a week near the end of September, and then Nichole is set to come out and visit near the end of October. Assuming everything goes as plans I will be heading back for good the weekend before Thanksgiving.

As far as living arrangements are concerned that is still up in the air. Initially it looks like I'll be staying at a hotel until I can find an apartment to stay in for the duration of the trip.

As I continue to do research for my time away I keep running across interesting proverbs which give me some insight into the people in Romania. Since there is still much unknown going forward I found the following particularly apropos.

Apără-mă de găini, că de câini nu mă tem.

Defend me from chickens, for dogs I'm not afraid of.

Indeed.